10 Plus 1977 Ford F250 Videos…Link…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Fuio9UpSzs&list=PL5q1n3MQ9IDs3-t-NJHgwTt5u7rXinp4f

I proceeded to remove the rear tire, brake drum, and replace the wheel brake cylinder. After removing the tire, I then removed the axle shaft lock bolts (40-50 ft. lbs. of torque), and removed the axle. Then I bent the locking tabs back on the lock washer that is behind the outer lock nut (90-110 ft. lbs.) and removed the outer lock nut. I used a chisel and carefully tapped counter clockwise to remove this nut. After removing this nut and the lock washer, I carefully chisel tapped loose the second inner locknut (50-80 ft. lbs. while rotating the drum, then back off 3/8 of a turn for reassembly).

After I loosened the brakes through the adjusting hole on the back side of the axle housing, the brake drum was now able to be removed. After removing the drum I was able to remove one brake shoe to better access the leaking wheel brake cylinder. I loosened the hydraulic brake line at the back of the cylinder and removed the two bolts that held the cylinder to the back of the drum assembly. It came off very easily in my hands. Then I reinstalled the new wheel brake cylinder, brake pad and hub in the reverse order from which they were removed. I made sure to grease the both bearings (good to do until the differential oil can get to them) and the inner bearing rubber seal.

I reinstalled the inner locknut, washer, and outer locknut, making sure to get them to torque, and bent the washer locking tabs over the outer locknut. I purchased a socket for this job which made it possible to get the nuts to proper torque. There is a link to purchase the socket after this article. Finally, I put the tire back on, adjusted the brake shoes and bled the brakes. I then topped of the differential fluid rather than changing it, as the old fluid still looked good.